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Zenith Brings Back the First El Primero Watch with a Gradient Dial from 1969: Chronomaster Revival A385.

[Luxury Timepieces]

Zenith is bringing back one of the earliest and most emblematic El Primero equipped chronographs from the earliest days of the revolutionary calibre in the form of a Chronomaster Revival model. 

1969 was certainly a year to remember for Zenith as it was the year that the Zenith El Primero, the world’s first automatic high-frequency chronograph, was unveiled. It made its debut in three distinct stainless steel models. Among them was the A385, a tonneau-shaped steel chronograph with an eye-catching brown gradient dial, which was the first “smoked” dial ever to be made in the watch industry and for Zenith. 

In fact, the A385 made headlines back in 1970, when it took part in Zenith’s “Operation Sky”. This extreme test consisted of strapping the watch to an Air France Boeing 707’s landing gear on a flight from Paris to New York to test its resistance to external aggressions such as drastic temperature fluctuations, wind force and changing air pressure. Upon landing, the watch was still functioning perfectly. This daring feat was a testament to the confidence those who had tirelessly worked on the El Primero calibre held, as well as tangible proof that a mechanical movement was superior to the nascent quartz movements of the time, which couldn’t have stood the temperature differences endured by the watch during the flight.

After over 50 years, the time has come for the A385 to make its return in the form of a Chronomaster Revival model. Far more than just a vintage-inspired creation, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is an actual reproduction of the original model from 1969 in an exercise of “reverse engineering” by the Manufacture. Using the original blueprints and production plans, each part of the A385’s 37mm tonneau-shaped stainless steel case, including the pump-style pushers, is faithful to the original 1969 model. The only differences, are the domed sapphire crystal instead of an acrylic glass and the display back instead of the closed solid steel case back, offering an unobstructed view of the El Primero 400 chronograph movement.

What made the A385 truly stand was its smoked brown gradient dial with a vignette effect that blackens towards the edges and provides a striking sense of visual depth, as if the dial was domed. For this Chronomaster Revival piece, Zenith sought to recreate the same warm tones and gradient effect, almost indistinguishable from the original with its red chronograph central second hand and silvery-white chronograph counters.

Keeping with the retro theme, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is available in two options that could have come straight from 1969: The first is the steel “ladder” bracelet, a modern remake of the Gay Frères bracelets that became emblematic of the early El Primero watches. The second option is a light brown calf leather strap that will develop a unique patina with wear and time.

With its historically correct proportions, striking dial and unwavering El Primero performance, the Chronomaster Revival A385 with its timeless look makes a statement in any situation.

The Chronomaster A385 is available at Zenith Boutiques and online shop, as well as at authorized retailers around the world.     

CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL A385 

Reference: 03.A384.400/385.C855

Key points: First gradient dial in watchmaking industry back in 1969.

Original Revival of the 1969 Reference A385 with 37 mm diameter.

Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement.

Movement: El Primero 400 Automatic

Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)

Power-reserve.: min. 50 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph: Central chronograph hand, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, 30minute counter at 3 o’clock. Tachymetric scale. Date indication at 4:30

Price 7900 CHF

Material: Stainless steel 

Water-resistance: 5 ATM

Dial: Smoked brown gradient dial with white-coloured counters

Hour-markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with beige Super-

LumiNova®SLN 

Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with beige SuperLumiNova®SLN 

Bracelet & Buckle: Light brown calf leather strap with protective rubber lining and a stainless steel pin buckle. 

CHRONOMASTER REVIVAL A385 

Reference: 03.A384.400/385.M385

Key points: First gradient dial in watchmaking industry back in 1969.

Original Revival of the 1969 Reference A385 with 37 mm diameter.

Automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement.

Movement: El Primero 400 Automatic

Frequency: 36,000 VpH (5 Hz)

Power-reserve.: min. 50 hours

Functions: Hours and minutes in the centre. Small seconds at 9 o’clock Chronograph: Central chronograph hand, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, 30minute counter at 3 o’clock. Tachymetric scale. Date indication at 4:30

Price 8400 CHF

Material: Stainless steel 

Water-resistance: 5 ATM

Dial: Smoked brown gradient dial with white-coloured counters

Hour-markers: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with beige Super-

LumiNova®SLN 

Hands: Rhodium-plated, faceted and coated with beige SuperLumiNova®SLN 

Bracelet & Buckle: “Ladder” bracelet with stainless steel double folding clasp.

Images courtesy of Zenith

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