Toh Yuen, the Chinese restaurant at Hilton Petaling Jaya, is a venue suited to both casual lunches and more deliberate business entertaining, with its midday dim sum service running daily from noon to 2:30 p.m. — except Mondays, when the restaurant is closed.

For companies looking to host smaller, more private gatherings, Toh Yuen offers two private dining rooms, each able to accommodate up to ten guests, making the space workable for client meetings or small company lunches that call for a degree of privacy.

The kitchen is helmed by Executive Chinese Chef Dexter Lai, who brings more than 20 years of experience to the role. Lai is originally from Tawau, Sabah, and has said his grandparents’ Hong Kong roots and fondness for Cantonese cooking shaped his own culinary direction — a heritage that informs the Cantonese technique underpinning much of Toh Yuen’s dim sum programme.

During a recent visit, our table worked through a selection of dim sum spanning both steamed and fried preparations, the restaurant’s signature Crispy Roasted Silver Hill Cherry Duck, as well as dessert. It was obvious from the onset that the restaurant has put emphasis on both presentation and taste, as we were most impressed with the presentation of the premium dim sum dishes, as well as the inclusion of ingredients such as foie gras, abalone and caviar – which served to elevate the dishes.

The baked chicken tart with abalone opened the meal well, pairing a flaky, buttery shell with the firmer texture of abalone in a way that avoided feeling too heavy or cloying. The steamed prawn and chicken siew mai with crab roe followed a similar logic, with the crab roe adding a clean, briny top note to an otherwise familiar format. The steamed cod fish dumpling with chicken broth was lighter still, the broth coming through clearly without overwhelming the delicacy of the fish.

The fried items carried more weight, deliberately so. The deep-fried shrimp toast with foie gras leaned into its richness, the foie gras given room to come through against the shrimp rather than competing with it. The deep-fried katafi roulade with otak-otak took a similar indulgent turn, its crisp shredded exterior giving way to the spiced, custardy otak-otak filling inside.

The deep-fried yam croquette with diced chicken and mushroom offered a softer, more comforting take on the same fried format, the yam’s texture holding up well against the chicken-and-mushroom filling.

Two further dishes stood out for technique rather than richness. The steamed rice roll wrapped with crispy prawn roll and mixed sauce combined a soft rice roll exterior with a crisp prawn filling, a textural contrast that worked better than it might sound on paper.

The wok-fried radish cake with XO chilli paste and bonito flakes, meanwhile, balanced the radish cake’s softer interior against a more assertive, smoky heat from the XO paste — a dish substantial enough to anchor the spread rather than simply round it out. Elsewhere, the steamed mushroom bun with black truffle held its own among the savoury dishes, the truffle’s aroma coming through clearly without dominating the soft, slightly sweet bun.

If the dim sum represented range, the meal’s clear centrepiece was the crispy roasted Silver Hill cherry duck, carved tableside in the traditional manner. The skin held its crispness well, rendering down to a thin, even layer over meat that stayed moist rather than dry — a balance that is often harder to get right than it looks. Diners are typically offered the option of a second preparation using the remaining duck, a detail that extends the dish’s value across more than one course and gives the meal a sense of occasion appropriate for hosting.

Dessert closed the meal with a chilled avocado purée with mango cream, a cooling, lightly sweet finish that worked well after the richer courses that preceded it without feeling like an afterthought.

Taken together, the dim sum and duck reflect a kitchen working at a level of consistency that holds up well for corporate hosting — neither so casual that it undersells a working lunch nor so elaborate that it runs counter to a tighter midday schedule. The two private rooms add a further practical dimension: companies entertaining clients or running smaller internal lunches have a quieter, more contained option than the main dining room offers, without needing to commit to a full private event.

Toh Yuen is located at Hilton Petaling Jaya and is open daily, except Mondays, from 12:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch and 6:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. for dinner.

For reservations or further information, contact the restaurant at 603 7955 9122, WhatsApp 6016 216 0414, email PETHI_FB@hilton.com, or visit http://eatdrinkhilton.com

You can also book your table online at: https://www.sevenrooms.com/experiences/tohyuenmys/dim-sum-delights-5523000389844992

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Photos by Andy Kho for timchew.net using the vivo X200 Pro